‘Not ugly, just poor’: how the sweetness trade is widening the category divide

TextEllen AtlantaIllustrationJethro NepomucenoIllustrationDominique Sisley

Botox, fillers and cosmetic surgery have gotten more and more essential to stay as much as modern magnificence requirements, making a magnificence tax that’s pricing many individuals out

In our new Class Ceiling collection, we unpack how class truly impacts younger individuals in the present day – from our jobs, to the way in which now we have intercourse, to our normal expertise of the world.

Beauty and wealth have all the time been bedfellows. Throughout historical past, the sweetness commonplace of any given interval has served the ideological pursuits of the ruling class. During the Renaissance, plump, pale pores and skin was a prized signifier of excessive social standing, whereas sun-darkened pores and skin turned synonymous with decrease lessons labouring exterior. Today, nevertheless, that very same tanned complexion is fascinating, coming, because it has within the west, to point leisure time, holidaying overseas and the posh of disposable revenue.

While the distribution of ‘natural’ magnificence is a democratic genetic course of, the sweetness commonplace is kind of the alternative. Appearance has all the time been an important supply of differentiation for these with privilege, who use their wealth to speak their social ‘value’ and set themselves aside from these with out. As a consequence, magnificence displays a category hierarchy and has lengthy been a website of social wrestle. While some individuals have the financial freedom and sophistication standing to have interaction in magnificence work, others are left with the stigma of ‘ugliness’.

In 2022, magnificence requirements are making a magnificence tax that’s increased than ever. With beauty procedures turning into available, there may be now an expectation not solely of the same old roster of ‘maintenance’ therapies – hair, nails, eyebrows, lashes, tooth – however of ‘tweakments’ like injectables and surgical procedures. According to the Aesthetic Plastic Surgery National Databank, the variety of botox procedures carried out in America elevated by 54 per cent between 2019 and 2020, and fillers had been up by 75 per cent. The UK is the world’s fastest-growing market for facial filler, and British plastic surgeons reported a 70 per cent enhance in session requests over 2020. 

Often, those that are celebrated for his or her magnificence are more and more individuals who have undergone varied surgical procedures and coverings. The “I’m not ugly, I’m just poor” meme format is a mirrored image of this alteration: utilizing ‘before’ and ‘after’ photos of excessive profile celebrities like Bella Hadid, Kylie Jenner and Simi and Haze, it demonstrates how cash somewhat than genetics is all that’s essential to create a face that’s deemed as lovely.

This is critical as a result of now, greater than ever, our faces have develop into our most respected commodity. Thanks to social media, selfies and Zoom calls, our look is all the time entrance and centre and it has develop into one thing we ‘should’ spend money on. Middle and upper-class ladies have the monetary freedom to view an costly and dangerous surgical process as a ‘treat’ to permit them to suit the sweetness commonplace and reap the rewards of adherence. The result’s a benchmark for ‘beauty’ solely reserved for these with disposable revenue, and a brand new magnificence class system wherein there are those that can afford to take part and those that can’t.

Adhering to the sweetness commonplace requires a privilege, but additionally generates privilege, making a vicious cycle wherein these with out the financial freedom to take part are closely penalised, financially and socially. ‘Poorly groomed’ ladies stand to earn 40 per cent lower than their beautified counterparts, whereas enticing persons are over 20 per cent extra prone to be referred to as again for a job interview, and are perceived to be extra socially expert, reliable, assured and competent. “If you’re white, middle class and you’ve got a good job, you don’t need these things as much,” says Ruth Holliday, professor in Gender and Culture on the University of Leeds. “It’s when you’re marginalised that this beauty work becomes so much more important.”

As the price of magnificence will increase – the soar between a manicure and a nostril job is critical – persons are being priced out and placing themselves in danger financially with the intention to take part. A latest article for Refinery29 detailed how ladies are racking up hundreds of kilos in bank card debt with the intention to get Botox and filler. According to a latest survey of 900 salons by magnificence reserving software program Pamperbook, ladies are spending a median of over £1,000 per 30 days on nails, hair and aesthetic therapies akin to facials and injectables. The pressures levelled towards ladies to retain and preserve the right face, resist the consequences of ageing, take away their physique hair and groom themselves to perfection, imply that magnificence therapies are sometimes paid for over different ‘essential’ gadgets.

It’s not simply funds that we’re risking to get the right face, however our well being as properly. Those who can’t afford respected clinics reduce corners by travelling overseas the place costs are cheaper. In 2014, an estimated 41,000 medical vacationers visited Colombia the place breast augmentation plus two days in a lodge will be had for round $4,000. However, many of those ‘affordable’ procedures are executed by unlicensed, untrained docs – as much as as many as 30 per cent – and in 2016, 30 ladies died throughout beauty surgical procedures. As Naomi Wolf prophesied in her 1990 polemic The Beauty Myth: “The free market will compete to cut up women’s bodies more cheaply, if more sloppily, with no-frills surgery in bargain-basement clinics”.

“We found in our research on cosmetic tourism that most of the people who travelled abroad for surgery weren’t wealthy people, they were doing it because it was cheaper there and they could get a deal,” says Professor Holliday. “Beauty technology was seen almost as an equivalent to qualifications. For middle-class people, further education is seen as a necessity for success, but beauty treatments work in the same way for those who are excluded from that culture. It’s all about investing in yourself to try and make a living.” 

While magnificence work executed properly can act as a type of social development, when badly executed these procedures can have the reverse impact, turning into their very own class signifiers. Whether it’s bigger lips, poorly utilized filler or too-white veneers, the way in which magnificence therapies are carried out is including one other layer of social separation. “For middle-class people, seeing somebody who has obviously had work done can evoke a bit of disgust,” says Professor Holliday.

“Working-class bodies are nearly always marked as excessive, as too much, and lip filler would be a classic example. However, working-class people might not see it in the same way. Bigger is better because it’s the obviousness of it that shows you are a body of value, and that you should be included in society. By working on your own body, you’re showing your skill, your resources and your labour, which is more valued in working-class culture.”

In our individualistic, capitalist and patriarchal tradition, the sweetness commonplace is performing as a device to maintain these with much less privilege on the backside of the social hierarchy. Cosmetic procedures have develop into a kind of standing image for aspirational ladies, the brand new designer bag. It is a manner for these with the privilege to maintain and enhance their benefit, whereas those that can’t take part are given little selection however to chop corners so as to take action.

Unless we work to alter issues, we’re approaching a future wherein our magnificence commonplace evolves to an ever-expensive best, additional growing the chance hole between lessons. “I’m not ugly, I’m just poor” could be a meme – however the actuality behind the satire paints a terrifying imaginative and prescient for the long run.

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